Pilgrimage in Oaxaca 2015

Season 2014–2015 · all tours that season

This extreme challenge difficulty and extremely popular tour in the state of Oaxaca starts and ends in Oaxaca city. The route to the coast will take us through a major Mexican pilgrimage destination, Juquila. People come from all over Mexico by foot, bicycle and motorized vehicle. After a brief stay on the coast in the surfer town of Pto. Escondido we head back into the hills and mountains to loop back to Oaxaca. The mountain scenery here is absolutely spectacular. This area is rich in indigenous culture, mainly Mixtec, Triqui and Amuzgos. We end the ride along an ancient trading route winding it's way along the top of a high ridge.

Archive note: dates.js says 2016 but the weekday (Tues Jan 6) and page title 'Pilgrimage in Oaxaca 2015' match 2015. Final run of Pilgrimage in Oaxaca.

Dates:	Tues Jan 6, 2015 to Tues Jan 20, 2015 (2 weeks - 10 cycling days)
Distances:	Average/day: 84km Maximum/day: 117km Total Approx: 838km Total Climb: 14000m+
Route Type:	Extreme CHALLENGE Challenge DifficultyYou need to have excellent fitness and good cycling experience. Distances generally average about 70 - 110 km per day (depending on hills), and are always less than 150 km. Roads range from flat to Sierra Madre (mountainous!). We may climb up to 3000 metres in a day. difficulty. Mostly in the mountains. Weather The Weather: MountainsLate fall and winter in the Mexican mountains is dry and cool. The sun warms things up during the daytime, but expect freezing temperatures overnight. High volcanoes can be snowcapped around this time. Spring is warmer, and in the summer it will often rain in the afternoon. \| Road The Road: MountainsThe road is generally in excellent condition. There are some sections of dirt road, and rough pavement. In the mountainous areas, the road rarely flattens out and occasionally climbs at more than a 10% grade, however in the high plateaus the road can be fairly flat to rolling. Traffic is generally light to non-existent, except of course close to larger towns and cities. The surface is generally wide and the drivers are courteous. \| Land The Land: MountainsAltitudes generally range between 1500 and 2500m, however on some tours we may climb up over 4000m. The high volcanoes are snow-capped in the winter. The mountain vegetation varies greatly from humid cloud forests to cool dry pine forests or dry desert shrub.
Highlights:	High mountains and deep valleys make for some outstanding scenery and challenging riding. There are Zapotec ruins as well as indigenous Zapotec, Mixtec and Triqui people and settlements. The roads here are very quiet, most with very little traffic. We will make the famous pilgrimage to Santa Catarina Juquila, then head down to the famous surfer town of Puerto Escondido on the coast. There are more challenging climbs ahead, as well as colonial towns, little Paris, the biggest Dominican church in all of Mexico and a spectacular almost 50km long stretch of road along an ancient trading route that meanders atop a high ridge offering views on both sides.

The Route

Itinerary

Click any day for the full description. Itineraries were always subject to minor changes.

WhenWhereDistanceHighlights

Day 0 — Tues Jan 6, 2015Meet in Oaxaca city-

Mountain colonial city. Markets, museums, shady plazas, nearby Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban. [more]

We meet in the capital of Oaxaca state, Oaxaca city, commonly known as just Oaxaca. At about 1500m elevation, It'ss fairly cool and dry. The center is colonial with straight narrow cobbled streets, stone buidlings and many pedestrial walkways. This is the perfect place to sample some of Oaxaca's famous culinary delights, including several varieties of mole, hot chocolate (did you know that chocolate originated in Mexico?), quesillo (Oaxacan stringy cheese, much like good mozzarella), tlayudas, chapulines (grasshoppers!) and much, much more. There are many interesting markets, pleasant shaded plazas, restaurants and cafes, museums, galleries and churches. The nearby Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban are a must. Besides the archeological wonders, they offer a stupendous view of the surrounding countryside and mountains.

Day 1 — Wed Jan 7, 2015Oaxaca to Sola de Vega92km
1200m ꜛ

Big market. Starts flat, end in the mountains [more]

This is the pilgrimage route for many people. We will very likely come across many pilgrims walking and cycling towards the town of Juquila just like us. We will be transferred by car or van to Zimatlan, check out the big weekly market, have breakfast, and then get on our bikes and ride! The day starts out quite flat, the flat becomes rolling and the rolling becomes mountainous. We go over our first mountain pass before dropping down to Sola de Vega.

Day 2 — Thurs Jan 8, 2015Sola de Vega to Juchatengo51km
900m ꜛ

Morning market, challenging climb, spectacular descent, in the thick of the pilgrimage [more]

We're just starting off, so we'll keep the distances in the mountains short. Today is our first challenging pass as we climb up from about 1400m to 2200m. The view opens up to a wonderous collage of mountains and valleys and we start on a beautiful 34km descent down to 900m elevation and the cute little town of San pedro Juchatengo.

Day 3 — Fri Jan 9, 2015Juchatengo to Juquila53km
1641m ꜛ

Amazing views, challenging climbing, pilgrimage destination [more]

Well, in the mountains, what goes down, must come up again... We climb our way out of this warm valley back up into the pine clad mountains to about 1800m. The sideroad to Juquila rolls along before dropping at an impossible grade. Santa Catarina Juquila is know all over Mexico as one of the many famous pilgrimage sites. People come to Juquila from far away, and once you're here you'll realize what a feat that really is. They come with prayers and a promise that they will keep coming every year for a certain number of years. In exchange the virgin of Juquila is to grant them a miracle; perhaps their sick relative will get well again. In the church there are no pews because some of the pilgrims will get down on hands and knees to crawl the remaining distance into the church and up to the tiny statue of the Virgin.

Day 4 — Sat Jan 10, 2015Juquila to Puerto Escondido117km
1780m ꜛ

Up, and dooooooowwwwwwwwwwnnn... the Pacific ocean [more]

We finally make it to the ocean and are welcomed by Puerto Escondido after a long hard day of cycling. This small sea-side resort offers miles and miles of great beaches, body surfing and of course boogie-boarding and proper surfing if you're up for it. The nightlife is exciting yet intimate mixing an international surfer and backpacker croud with Mexican tourists.

Day 5 — Sun Jan 11, 2015Puerto Escondido-

Rest Day. Small Resort Town. Surfer Beach, Mexican Resort Beach, Seafood, Nightlife. [more]

Take a well deserved rest in this small sea-side resort offers miles and miles of great beaches, body surfing and of course boogie-boarding and proper surfing if you're up for it. The nightlife is exciting yet intimate mixing an international surfer and backpacker croud with Mexican tourists.

Day 6 — Mon Jan 12, 2015Puerto Escondido-

A second rest day. You've rested, now check out the local attractions [more]

Things you might like to do today include surfing or surfing lessons, scuba diving, exploring nearby sheltered beaches such as Bahía Puerto Angelito or Playa Carrizalillo, exploring the splendid market, deep sea fishing or turtle and dolphin spotting. You can also take a bird watching tour to the Laguna Manialtepec or the Parque Nacional Lagunas de Chacahua.

Day 7 — Tues Jan 13, 2015Puerto Escondido to Santiago Jamiltepec110km
500m ꜛ

Beautiful foothills and distant mountains. Colonial mountain town. [more]

Today we meander up along the coast with the occasional view of the ocean, then veer inland a little behind a massive series of lagoons. Finally we make a decisive turn inland over gently rolling land and a final challenging climb delivers us to Santiago Jamiltepec.

Day 8 — Wed Jan 14, 2015Santiago Jamiltepec to Cacahuatepec80km
950m ꜛ

gentle climbs, Pinotepa market, foothills [more]

We head more towards the mountains today, but the real climbing doesn't start again yet. We'll still be in the foothills with gentle climbs meandering around and between hills. In the middle of the ride, we will check out the large weekly Pinotepa Nacional market.

Day 9 — Thurs Jan 15, 2015Cacahuatepec to Putla87km
1500m ꜛ

more climbing, small towns, gentle mountains, Putla Sunday market [more]

Further inland we go. Putla while still not too high at 810m is definately in the mountains now and at the base of our biggest climb, coming tomorrow. If we arrive in Putla early enough you will also have a chance to take in the great market here.

Day 10 — Fri Jan 16, 2015Putla to Tlaxiaco88km
2240m ꜛ

serious climbing, breath-taking views, little Paris [more]

We have a 50km climb from 810m up to 2500m, the highest point on this tour. This is a big one and it delivers us into indigenous Triqui country. After the big climb we still have a series of shorter climbs and descents that eventually deliver us down to Tlaxiaco at 2050m.

Day 11 — Sat Jan 17, 2015Tlaxiaco-

Rest day. Little Paris. Huge weekly market [more]

After yesterday's climb, we'll need a good rest! Tlaxiaco is a beautiful little colonial town known as little Paris. Around the 1850's Europeans would frequently travel through and to Tlaxiaco, a theater was erected in French architectural style, the town's wealthy began to dress in French fashions and pretty soon the town became known as little Paris. Little remains of this trend now, but the name has stuck. Our rest day is planned to coincide with the huge weekly market here, it is well worth exploring as the indigenous people from all around come to town today to sell their produce and wares.

Day 12 — Sun Jan 18, 2015Tlaxiaco to Nochixtlan83km
1209m ꜛ

small towns, rolling countryside, huge church [more]

Today will take us through some rolling countryside reminiscent of Castille in Spain, then up into bigger climbs and down to Yanhuitlan. In Yanhuitlan is the largest Dominican church in all of Mexico. It was started in 1548 during a time of terrible disease. Between the years 1520 and 1620, the population of this area of the Mixcteca Alta dropped from 350,000 to 35,00. Now the church stands as an almost abandoned monument to the labour of many of those people. Years of neglect have caused severe damage and errosion and today they are trying to slowly preserve and rebuild. If we arrive early enough in Nochixtlan, you can check out the end of the big weekly market.

Day 13 — Mon Jan 19, 2015Nochixtlan to Oaxaca city103km
1200m ꜛ

Hard day, 50km along a high ridge, great views on both sides [more]

We end this tour with a kick. There's nothing easy about today's ride, while we will end up at lower elevation than where we started, there is still plenty of climbing in between. The main big climb takes us up to a high ridge, and ancient trading route. The road meanders for almost 50km along this ridge, rising and dropping but always coming back to ride the top of the ridge. There are spectacular views of the mountains and valleys on boths sides. Finally we are treated to a 20km long descent and the final section, now in the central valleys of Oaxaca is much flatter.

Day 14 — Tues Jan 20, 2015Oaxaca city-

Stay a bit longer or fly back home [more]

The capital of Oaxaca state, Oaxaca city, is commonly known as just Oaxaca. At about 1500m elevation, It's fairly cool and dry. The center is colonial with straight narrow cobbled streets, stone buidlings and many pedestrial walkways. This is the perfect place to sample some of Oaxaca's famous culinary delights, including several varieties of mole, hot chocolate (did you know that chocolate originated in Mexico?), quesillo (Oaxacan stringy cheese, much like good mozzarella), tlayudas, chapulines (grasshoppers!) and much, much more. There are many interesting markets, pleasant shaded plazas, restaurants and cafes, museums, galleries and churches. The nearby Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban are a must. Besides the archeological wonders, they offer a stupendous view of the surrounding countryside and mountains.

What it cost that season

Guides' Fee	+ Accommodations	+ Food & Drink	+ Misc.	= Approx. Total Land Cost
$877	$215	$180	$150	$1,422

All figures in US dollars, as published at the time. Riders paid their own accommodation, food and entrance fees on the road — the Guides' Fee was the only charge from ¡El Tour. Full history: price of Pilgrimage in Oaxaca through the years.

Photo Album

Many people do the pilgrimage to Juquila by bicycle

A runner carries a torch towards Juquila

Agave hearts ready to be used to make mescal

The famous "black clay" of San Bartolomé near Oaxaca city

Only in Mexico... Hey! How about a parade?

A turkey for sale in the main market of Oaxaca

She got tired of comparing apples to oranges... sorry

An archway of the massive dominican church in Yanhuitlán. It's the largest in all of Mexico, started in 1529.

Inside the massive dominican church in Yanhuitlán.

The beautiful organ inside the massive dominican church in Yanhuitlán.

Cycling uphill... we're in the mountains after all

The Triquis, only about 15,000 strong, fiercely hang on to their traditions.

The church in the town of Santiago Jamiltepec

This tour in other seasons: 2005–2006 | 2006–2007 | 2007–2008 | 2008–2009 | 2009–2010 | 2010–2011 | 2011–2012

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